Salt—A New American Tavern
2127 E. Pratt St.
Baltimore, MD 21231
410-276-5480
www.salttavern.com
Evidence that Baltimore is quickly becoming a major player in the culinary scene is the recent addition of several eclectic and very un-Baltimore-like restaurants. Whether they are new Italian restaurants replacing the more traditional standards in Little Italy or more sophisticated and mature culinary experiences, the restaurant scene in Baltimore is burgeoning, much like the city itself, and subsequently rivaling more notable culinary cities, like Washington, D.C.
Salt, located in Baltimore’s Butcher’s Hill-Patterson Park area, is such a newcomer, and it perfectly exemplifies what is fresh, exciting, and different about Baltimore and its culinary tastes. Head Chef and owner Jason Ambrose isn’t a recent addition to Baltimore’s restaurants. He has worked at many local restaurants, each with a different take on typical dishes. Fortunately, he has brought his experience and imagination to Salt, which is quickly becoming—or perhaps has already become—Baltimore’s best new restaurant.
I first heard of Salt several months ago, when a friend and her husband informed me of a new restaurant that had opened in their area. They had stopped by one night, but it was too crowded, so they decided to pass. But, judging from a brief glimpse of the menu, she believed I would enjoy it. Finally, I visited with a friend on an early Thursday evening and surprisingly the place was packed but fortunately there was room in the bar, so we opted to dine in there instead. Even though our location in the bar was crowded and noisy, it didn’t distract from our experience, which exceeded our expectations. After that night, we promised ourselves to return a few months later. With much excitement, we returned this week, opting for a Monday evening, hoping it wouldn’t be as crowded, but anticipating its food to be just as amazing. Salt hit all of the expected high notes, but there were a few unanticipated flat chords, too.
Unlike The Brewer’s Art (which I previously reviewed), Salt is a standout among its neighbors. Nestled in a community, rather than an avenue of restaurants, bars, and businesses, Salt’s exterior purposefully doesn’t match any of the adjoining or adjacent rowhomes. Its soft, beige color juxtaposes with that of the dark, brown bricks of the area. Passing by, it begs you to stop inside, which is probably what initially drew my friend and her husband. Once inside, the bar sits to your right and the tiny dining area, which holds approximately 30 people, is to your left. What is frustrating about Salt is its size. Clearly, if it continues to be popular, it will have to expand. As it stands, it is too small to handle the demand.
Still, the interior is just as unique as the exterior. Martian green lamps hang overtop of the bar, which is lit up by a bright combination of white florescent lights and a large mirror. The dining room is more traditional and less intense. Exposed brick and hardwood floors are a nice combination. A brilliant touch is the large goblet of salt resting on each table that holds a small candle. Artwork from a local artist hangs throughout the entire restaurant, and, judging by your own particular tastes, these pieces can invite conversation or become an eyesore and distraction.
What is pleasing and not off-putting is the menu. Since our last visit, it appears that Chef Ambrose has opted to retain the more popular items, while expanding to include more variations on classic dishes, like a Macaroni and Cheese starter, with porcini mushrooms, goat cheese, and fresh herbs. I was disappointed in not seeing the Kobe Beef Empanada starter, which I had ordered previously, because it was delicious and artful, drizzled with jalapeño jelly, and accompanied by a slice of pineapple.
But, I was more than pleased to again order the Duck Fat French Fries, which are served Belgian style in a paper cone. (Recalling my review of Brewer’s Art and their famous Rosemary Garlic Fries, it’s obvious I have a thing for fries. Quite frankly, if it involves a potato and is fried, I’m going to order it.) In addition to the inventive use of duck fat, Ambrose adds a trio of aioli to his fries. On this night, the trio had changed a bit. Still remaining were the white truffle and chipotle aioli, but out was the mango, replaced by a vinegar aioli, which I didn’t particularly enjoy. The fries were just as delicious, if not more so than before. Perfectly crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, the fries truly do not need the trio of aioli, which acts as a benefit, not a detraction, from this perfect starter.
There are a few salads on the Starters menu, but they are not as inventive as the other items, like the Crispy Lobster Spring Roll and Foie Gras and Kobe Beef Slider. The spring roll arrived much larger than I had expected: two sizable, crispy triangles stuffed with pieces of lobster, thinly-sliced carrots, shredded cabbage, and Asian noodles, along with a citrus dipping sauce, which tasted like a typical oriental sauce. While the roll was perfectly fried, crispy, and too hot to the touch, it was overstuffed with vegetables, particularly carrots, which overpowered the taste of the lobster, if there was any taste to the lobster.
The Slider was much more successful. This is not your typical mini-burger. It would seem so, considering a small slice of foie gras rests on top of the Kobe beef and the condiments are white truffle aioli and red onion marmalade. Put together and placed in-between a slightly grilled roll, this was the most delicious and exciting dish of the evening, by the far the best “burger†I have ever tasted. Both the foie gras and the beef were perfectly cooked and the contrast between the two seemingly melted once combined. The aioli and marmalade did not overcome the foie gras or beef, but instead added a nice, slight sweetness. My friend felt that the burger was perhaps too “chary,†considering its small size, but he still enjoyed it immensely, too.
The Entrees menu has grown by a few dishes since our last visit. The Sugarcane Skewered Pork Tenderloin, which I ordered last time, is still on the menu, and I seriously considered ordering it again, especially if it was going to be just as good. But, several other entrees caught my attention, such as the Honey Glazed Chicken Breast over butternut squash puree, or the Pan Seared Filet Mignon, which comes with blue cheese and bacon potato gratin, or the Braised Veal Cheeks, with pancetta and a sage and barley risotto. I finally settled on the Gingered Beef Short Ribs, with mashed potatoes, and crispy fried collard greens. The ribs were perfectly cooked, sliding off the bone, and perfectly seasoned, meshing well with the creamy mashed potatoes. The collard greens added a welcomed element of surprise. Expecting long strips of collard greens in fried batter, which is how I’ve eaten them before, I was delighted that they were instead minced and lightly fried and then sprinkled overtop the dish. The Gingered Beef Short Ribs were as close to being perfect as possible.
My friend ordered the Duck Confit Ravioli, which is a hold over from the earlier menu. The ravioli were delivered in a large and deep bowl and swimming in a wild mushroom sauce. Our palettes detected a hearty broth that threatened to drown the dish. There was plenty of duck confit placed inside the ravioli, but its taste was obstructed by the mushroom sauce and the slightly overcooked ravioli. The flavors were not bold or rich, unlike the other dishes. Instead, this entrée was subtler and more soothing. In the end, it was still a very good dish.
If Salt is inventive and creative and truly unique in its preparation and delivery of its Starters and Entrees, then its desserts need more of that magic. Clearly, desserts are not Chef Ambrose’s specialty. In fact, one item, the Pecan Pie, is made by a local bakery. The others are standard dessert items: chocolate molten cake, classically prepared crème brulee, and three different scoops of ice cream served in chocolate-covered mini cones. Each is very good, but you leave wondering if Ambrose will hire a pastry chef in the near future, in order to compliment his innovatively crafted menu.
Undoubtedly, Salt is a welcome to the Baltimore culinary scene. Having only been open since February of this year, it has quickly become popular, to the point that they don’t accept reservations. Its dishes are original and always well-prepared and plated. Service is charming and complimentary. The wine list consists of a small mix of Spanish, Italian, French and American wines. Bottles are inexpensive, ranging from $20 – $50, and glasses range from $6 – $8. Salt’s bar also contains a creative drink menu. I highly recommend the Pomegranate Martini.
You can easily guess that salt might play a significant role in the restaurant’s dishes. Surprisingly, this is not Chef Ambrose’s intention. He has been quoted as saying that the name of his restaurant originates from a childhood moment, when he witnessed his grandfather pouring salt over top of honeydew melon. From then on, he realized the importance of seasoning and flavor. He has carried this philosophy to Salt, where each dish is properly seasoned and delightfully flavored.
Jason D.
Extremely well reviewed!