Cafe Mogador

101 Saint Marks Pl – Btwn 1st Ave & Ave A
New York, NY 10009
212-677-2226

Brunch in Manhattan is an institution. You can do the enormous, fancy, and slightly stuffy style brunch that places like the Plaza Hotel offer (not my favorite, but it’s worth the experience; how often do you get to eat your eggs under the eyes of an ice sculpture?), or you can do a small, more relaxed brunch. I prefer the latter option, and there is no shortage of places to go. One of my favorites is Café Mogador in the East Village. It’s brunch, but with a Moroccan twist.

The Moroccan eggs Benedict is a great place to start. Sometimes it’s a bit heavier than what I’m looking for, but on those days when I’m extra hungry it hits the spot. The eggs are served on an English muffin smeared with a spicy Moroccan sauce (it’s a bit like a toned-down version of harissa, a sauce made with ground hot peppers), poached eggs and creamy hollandaise. It’s also served with a small side salad; chopped cucumber, tomato and onion mixed with parsley and dressed with salt, pepper and olive oil with white vinegar. It’s a great palate cleanser when the hollandaise gets to be a bit much.

My favorite brunch item to get, though, is the Moroccan platter. It’s served with two eggs, the above salad, homemade hummus, fresh tabbouleh, harissa and homemade pita that’s served warm. I always get scrambled eggs because I’m a bit boring that way, but it’s the Moroccan elements of this dish that make me order it again and again. The hummus is just a teeny bit bitter, and they serve it with a well of delicious herbed olive oil in the center. The hummus is cool and the perfect consistency (not too thick, not too watery, and not tahini-ed into non-hummus land) and is a great counterpoint to the fluffy pita bread. I like to mix it with the harissa for a bit of a kick. The tabbouleh, being made in-house, is extremely fresh and far better than anything you can get in a store. It’s loaded with parsley and not too much bulgur wheat, and fresh juicy tomatoes with lots of lemon.

If traditional brunch fare is what you’re in the mood for, Mogador has plenty of options. There are a wide variety of omelets to choose from, or you can make your own from their list of standard and Moroccan-influenced ingredients (like halumi cheese … yum!). They also make delicious fluffy pancakes; last time I ordered them I somehow consumed nine before I called it quits (though, they were silver-dollar sized). On days when I am feeling rather European I get a bowl of fresh fruit, pain au chocolat and a big cup of coffee. They also have fresh-squeezed orange juice, and they do offer mimosas on Sunday.

So, the food is delicious and quite affordable as well. The portions are generous, and I would be surprised to have brunch run over $15 per person, with tip included. Unfortunately, the issues that plague Mogador are the same problems found at nearly all Manhattan eateries. With real estate at such a premium, all but the most expensive restaurants need to cram in as many tables as possible in order to cover their operating costs. This means that you can be, in effect, sitting at a two-top that is right next to a party of four. Mogador is consistently delicious, so it’s always packed, so more often than not you will end up sitting with a bunch of strangers. For those of us that are used to this type of dining, it’s not a big deal, but if you’re looking for a quiet intimate meal this probably isn’t the place to go. Nevertheless, they do offer a number of seats outdoors when the weather is nice, which cuts down a bit on the noise factor, and you’re guaranteed a two-person table to yourself (it is difficult to accommodate a larger party outside). Overall the décor inside is lovely as well, but this is a place to go for the food itself, not an entire dining experience. http://www.cafemogador.com