1647 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Chicago, IL 60647
The tagline for this small, intimate space in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood is “Midwestern farmers, Mediterranean flavors.” They live up to this by utilizing four farms within 50 miles of Chicago to construct an Italian centered menu with influences from everywhere along the Mediterranean coast. Mado is BYOB- fresh food expertly prepared is their focus, wine and other drinks are up to the diner.
Things got off to a delicious start with a complimentary appetizer of fried pig skins served with an ever so slightly spicy crème fraiche and chipotle dipping sauce. We then moved on to a serving of wonderfully fresh and crisp radishes accompanied by creamy homemade butter and English and snap peas served on a bed of ricotta cheese and fresh marjoram. Always up for trying something a little different, my boyfriend ordered the tripe, which came in a rather large appetizer portion in a tomato and fresh marjoram sauce. Inspired by his expressions of delight, I tried some for myself and found the tripe itself actually quite delicious with the hint of spice in this fresh sauce.
From there, we ordered a half portion of the pasta special- penne with green beans and small red potatoes in a pesto sauce. As with everything else it was extremely tasty but we both agreed that as an entrée the combination of carbs smothered in pesto might just become a little tiresome.
And then, the moment of the entrée had arrived. I ordered the rainbow trout with couscous, saffron and harissa. The fish’s exterior was crispy and the meat tender and flavorful with the harissa (a spicy North African paste of smoked or dried chili peppers, garlic, coriander and cumin) adding a nice kick. My boyfriend ordered the beef heart with spicy turnip slaw and green garlic trencher. It was presented with the heart seared medium rare, cut into several slices and served on a piece of toasted bread that had been spread with the green garlic. The turnip slaw featured wide slivers of crispy turnip dressed lightly with an olive oil vinaigrette that was spicy, as promised, without being overwhelming.
We capped off the meal with a dessert of almond cornmeal cake with sour cherry jam and a marscarpone-goat cheese cream topped with candied almonds which added a lovely crunch without being overpoweringly sweet. It was a wonderfully crafted dessert with a great balance of tartness and sweetness and a perfect way to end a stellar meal.
The service matched the food’s high level of excellence. Our server was friendly, attentive and extremely knowledgeable about the menu. Her solicitous manner topped off our fine dining experience.
More information can be found at www.madorestaurantchicago.com.
