Okay, Polenta is good. But I’ve been fortunate to discover that it is only one incarnation of this type of dish. For example I learned of Panisse in the book “Artisinal Cooking.” Panisse is similar to Polenta, but is made with chickpea flour rather than cornmeal, and cut into thin rounds before frying in olive oil. I understand this is a popular street food in the south of France. I made it and it is FABULOUS. It is a flavorful and surprising side dish that is a refreshing deviation from the usual fare. (I am SO tired of restaurants chucking potatoes and rice at me as the requisite bland starch.) Panisse would make a tasty bed for a vegetable ragout. And what about breakfast possibilities?
I was thumbing through “The Frugal Gourmet Cooks Three Ancient Cuisines” recently and discovered yet another variation. Apparently corn was not introduced to Italy until the 1600s. Prior to that, they used chickpea flour or chestnut flour to make Polenta. Polenta made with chestnut flour is slightly sweet, nutty, and forms a nice crust when fried. I can’t imagine a more imaginative addition to a winter supper.
Is your curiosity piqued? Okay, here are the recipes.
Panisse (Chickpea Cakes) from “Artisinal Cooking” by Terrance Brennan and Andrew Friedman
3 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
2-1/2 cups white chicken stock or water
¾ cup chickpea flour
½ cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Black pepper in a mill
Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan and heat it over medium heat. Add the garlic and stock and bring to a simmer over high heat. Slowly whisk the chickpea and all-purpose flour into the simmering stock and continue to whisk until the mixture thickens and is smooth, with no lumps whatsoever, approximately 8 minutes. Lower the heat and continue to cook until it takes on the consistency of loose mashed potatoes, approximately 5 more minutes.
Pour the mixture into an 8×8” pan (it should come up to a depth of about ½ inch). Brush the top with 1 tablespoon olive oil and let cool, then cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
When ready to proceed, cut the chickpea cake into four rounds with a 3-1/2 inch cookie cutter. Line a large plate or platter with paper towels and set aside.
Dust the rounds with all-purpose flour on both sides, shaking off any excess.
Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed, 10-inch, nonstick sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Add the rounds and cook until lightly golden, approximately 3 minutes per side. Drain on the paper towel-lined plate, season with salt and 5 grinds of pepper, or to taste, and serve. 4 servings. (My note: fresh rosemary or thyme would be terrific with this, depending on the dish it accompanies.)
Chestnut Polenta adapted from “The Frugal Gourmet Cooks Three Ancient Cuisines” by Jeff Smith
2 cups water
¾ teaspoon salt
1-3/4 cup chestnut flour
Olive oil for frying
Bring the water to boil in a 2-quart saucepan and add the salt. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the flour, using a wire whip. Work hard at this as you do not want lumps. Return to low heat and continue stirring and cooking until mixture becomes very thick, about 10 to 15 minutes. Pour into an oiled loaf pan and chill overnight. Unmold and slice into 1/3 inch thick pieces. (My note: I like to pour it into the bottom of a 8×8” pan, and then once the mixture is chilled I cut out circles with a biscuit cutter.) Pan-fry in olive oil until golden brown and a bit crispy. 4 servings
That’s it! Let your creativity reign…
